Here we are: After we had visited the SOS Children’s Village in Tijuana (the next newsletter will inform about) we drove some 200 km down the Baja California and found a nice spot for our tent with a perfect view on the setting sun.

It was one of the romantic scenes every traveller experiences from time to time. Hrefna and I both were taken by the beauty of the moment and opened a bottle of wine. While at dinner there followed bottle number two and some tequilas. Some when later I had to strike the flag while my Icelandic friend did see no reason to stop.

This girl is tough in every aspect – and I once had made the mistake to call her a “boy with tits”. She did not quite like that and to my surprise I found her buying the latest “Cosmopolitan” the very next day.

We were a team and I saw her rather as a co-pilot than as the good-looking girl she definitely is. However, when being under the influence of alcohol, everything is a bit different and at the beginning I did not mind too much when the whole thing got a bit more intimate this night. Then, to my own astonishment, I felt that this was more than I wanted and we went to sleep.

On the next day I did not realize her being different and told myself that alcohol probably does the same with women as with men. We drove through beautiful Northern Mexico and over some high passes with tons of destroyed cars somewhere down in the valley. Mexico does not really care too much about any sort of garbage next to the streets.

In San Luis Rio Colorado we found a nice hotel and decided to stay for a night before driving on in direction of the Copper Canyon. Well, it should never come to that.

When going to the car to collect some fresh clothes, some guys who had parked their Jeeps next to the Land-Cruiser asked me whether we did take part in the “Travesias 2006”. Travesias? What’s that?

I was informed that “Las Travesias” was about crossing the sand dunes of the Sonora Desert, the second biggest sand desert in the world. For two days some 350 cars would hook up and go off-roading in the sand. Wow!
 
Of course I wanted to take part of this great adventure. I told Hrefna about and she, too, was excited about this adventure.

We filled the auxiliary tank with Diesel, bought some food and the next morning at 6am we were ready to hit the desert. The Mexicans were great guys – they welcomed us as VIP guests and we did not even have to pay the participation fee. However, they did not tell us about two things: 1) all the other cars had at least 300 horse powers and were considerably lighter than my 2.8 tons heavy Land-Cruiser and 2) there was absolutely no other girl taking part than Hrefna.

We did not know about this and at the entry of the desert I lowered the air pressure in the tyres as everybody else to about 15 PSI (before I had 50 PSI). When starting I found myself with a new co-pilot, Juan, who informed me that Hrefna would be driving in his friend’s Jeep. Aha? Well, then, no problem.

After the first hour or so and after some minor off-roading challenging we stopped for the first big sand dune. I saw Hrefna again and asked her whether she would join me again (after 1 hour of talking in Spanish I was quite exhausted). She said that she would prefer to ride with the faster (and lighter) Jeep. Hey – was this team spirit? Were we still a team? 

I did not have much time to think about it. The first big decent was about to come. The sand dune was very steep. Since I had some experience in mud-driving, I did what I learnt: 2nd low range gear, let the motor break, don’t use the breaks and try to stay in the plumb line. It worked and I started to realize that this whole Traversias was going to be tough. 
I was right: down in the basin we were supposed to climb the dunes and this proofed to be difficult if not impossible with my car. With a Diesel you have not a wide enough range of RPMs and need shift back when slowing down. This, however, is not an option in the soft sand since you stop immediately when there is no power on the wheels.

While most of the other cars simply used their up to 500 horse powers and climbed out of the trap, I tried it in an ankle of about 45°, like you do when you climb a very steep hill on your skis. It did not work. And was worried like hell that the car would capsize once it had stopped. I tried several times and I must admit, I was in despair. It did not work. The car was too heavy and not powerful enough. And, further-more, I had no experience at all in driving in the desert. Would I ever get out of there? 

Luckily, one of the Mexican drivers came over and offered me to show me a different route. He took the steering wheel and we climbed around the dune. I was once again sure that the Toyota would capsize but it did not. It seemed to take more than I would think. I later learnt that as long as your wheels keep turning the momentum would not shift and therefore you would not capsize (however, during the trip 4 cars capsized anyway).

The day went on and I found myself in many more complicated situations than I could wish for. Twice a Mexican driver had to show me a way around the obstacle and I have to say, this was like a driving lesson. It’s amazing what a car can do. We sped over obstacle, bushes, jumped from sand hill to sand hill and nothing broke. I realized that even if it was not as powerful as other cars, the Land-Cruiser’s quality was great.
  
During the day I saw Hrefna twice or three times and told her that I was not a taxi which you can take whenever you wanted. She did not say much. 

When the sun was about to set, our groups found a fabulous campsite on the top of a dune. The view was marvellous. 
I was tired beyond words and quite angry about Hrefna’s behaviour. Therefore I did tell her that I did not want to travel on with her and that I would bring her to the San Luis bus station the next day. She did not show much of a reaction, however, later in the evening she became friendlier. I did not realize much of this since I was half asleep and after a fabulous Mexican dinner I went straight to bed.

The Mexicans were great hosts and I am sorry that I was so tired that I could not enjoy the evening to its outmost. Also, they seemed to like Chris de Burgh and the music never went quiet for the whole night.

When waking up I was honestly afraid of what might come the next day. I did not want to lose the car. I just wanted to get out of there!
Luckily, things went better this day. Raúl, the son of our “Cruzeros” group leader who’s name was Raúl, too, offered to replace Hrefna and it was quite enjoyable to have an experienced co-pilot. Also, I suddenly felt much more self-assured about what the car and I were able to do and on this day two I changed from 2nd into top-gear. I started to be fun. Unfortunately, my stomach did experience some problems and I was happy to have my board pharmacy and some Imodium with me. The combination of a lot of sun and some spicy Mexican food seemed to be too much for the average Swiss off-roader. 

Again, we had to climb steep dunes but today I always could make it (or find an easy way around by myself). In the afternoon we made it to the final camp where the crazy Mexicans gunned their powerful vehicles up the steep dunes. Who can make it the furthest?

The guys of the Sonora Off-Road Club told me again how great it was that I took part (I thought: “how great it is that I have survived”) and invited me to become a honourable member of their club. So now I am already a member of a Chinese and a Mexican off-road club!

All in all it was experience worth it. The biggest and most challenging adventure so far. Sure enough I am sad to have lost Hrefna as a travelling partner but my stomach will be thankful for an early return to San Diego.