We have two maps of Cambodia. Unfortunately, they most of the time do not match. While map A has some clear ideas of major and minor roads, map B offers a vast network of small roads. Unfortunately, the big roads from map A are not existing on map B.

However, since we are now equipped with a state of the art GPS, we decided to find out which map was to trust.

The findings are disappointing. Don’t trust either. The major road from Phumi Khna Krau Phnum to Kulén is actually under construction. We made it half the way before we had to give up. There were simply no more tracks to be seen.

A couple of times we had to get out of the car to check how deep the water holes were – not a fun job, since 17'000 mosquitoes will immediately attack you, no matter how much mosquito spray you have applied. 

After we emerged from the worst bit of the road I mad an uncomfortable discovery: some tree trunk must have hit one of the front wheels – when driving 80km/h, the steering trembles like Muhammad Ali. Further-on, at least one of the rear shock absorbers seems to have come loose. Well, yet another problem I will have to check about tomorrow morning.

Even though the Toyota is a very tough car, now the trip starts to take its toll. Almost every 1000km there is something small to mend, something to weld. This would not be a big deal, if people here would understand what kind of parts or services you need. But they don’t and send you to a shop selling flowers when you need diesel.

We went back to the one road which is marked on both our maps. Here we could drive with up to 80km/h (which is super fast in Cambodia, believe me) and arrived in Anlong Veng before sunset. Anlong Veng was the strong hold of Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge and has not much more to offer than this guy’s grave. However, I do not understand why people want to pay a visit to a bad guy’s grave (I was in Moscow without visiting Stalin’s tomb) and therefore we tried to find some grease for the car – which was really in need for after a day in mud. This astonishingly worked out and some six guys – none of them speaking English - helped us doing the work. They did not even want some money and we rewarded them with one of our last Toblerones.

Well, it’s time for bed – tomorrow will be an even rougher day since the streets (if u can call them so) certainly won’t get any better. Good night.